Nothing like a Friday, day-long Compilation/Review Update seminar down in Groton to get those juices flowing! Sufficiently juiced by 4:15 PM, I jump into the Friday night rush hour traffic along I95 west toward New Haven to meet the boys (mild-mannered Keith, swashbuckling Vinny V and the noted rapper Rant On) for Lucinda Williams' free concert on the New Haven Green. God, this traffic sucks! I promised them I'd be there by five, but it's almost quarter to six and I'm only crossing the Q-Bridge.
Finally arrived at Vinny's. I'm awarded a beer as we pack Vinny's car with the essentials for the concert - chairs and beer.
Friday evening pre-concert for Lucinda Williams on New Haven Green
Amy Black & Sarah Borges Muscle Shoals Revue at Cafe Nine - excellent
Day two begins in similar fashion to day one - the Pool Hall Studs making snoring/other loud familiar noises in the other room as I arise just after daybreak. Because of my eight hours of French Quarter/Jazz Fest walking yesterday, I've developed a large blister on the bottom of my right foot; not a good thing. Oh well, suck it up. I dress, get coffee, stroll the Warehouse District, call The Reet. Another perfect day, weather wise. Back to the room mid-morning to try to blog Thu/Fri.
Toast to Johnny Gumbo
Eventually, Mark is up/dressed. While we wait (and wait) for Barry to go through his human-rain-delay morning routine, we walk the two blocks up Tchoupitoulas to Lucy's Retired Surfer Bar, our morning go-to spot to plan the day. Crowded already. Great $4 Bloody Marys. We make a toast to the late, semi-great Johnny Gumbo, the iconic Big Easy personality who left us several years ago. Call to Barry for plans. Lunch. Nola, will meet there.
One of the Jazz Fest lunch staples is a trip to Emeril's Nola restaurant for Miss Hays' stuffed chicken wings. "These wings are deboned, stuffed with a mixture of ground pork, chopped
shrimp, mushrooms, onions, celery, cilantro and fish sauce. They're
baked, then fried and served with a garlicky homemade hoisin dipping
sauce." We do a couple orders with BloodyMarys/Abita Ambers to start, then on to an entree of Shrimp & Grits. Now THAT'S a lunch!
It's Saturday in the park. No, that doesn't work, Chicago was yesterday. Saturday's lineup includes Marcia Ball, Jerry Lee Lewis, Aaron Neville along with closers Elton John, Ed Sheeran, TI, Terence Blanchard, Preservation Hall Jazz Band, Rockin' Dopsie. We arrive at the Gentilly end of the Fairgrounds around 2. The line for tickets goes on seemingly forever. Good move to get all tickets on Friday. We find Marc Broussard (he'll be at Hartford's Infinity Hall on June 7) sounding great on the Gentilly Stage. Next stop is Kermit Ruffins at Congo Square Stage viewed from the side on the track. Hey, it's getting REAL crowded in here today! Combo of perfect weather, a Saturday (always the biggest day) and Elton John on the bill spells massive crowd! We find the Jersey boys & girls in the Blues Tent for the Royal Southern Brotherhood, Cyril Neville's southern rock supergroup (“They are not a band – they are an extravaganza” – John Hiatt) that includes Devon Allman (Gregg's son), drummer Yonrico Scott, bassist Charlie Wooten and guitarist Bart Walker. Really good.
A brief trip to the Lagniappe Stage in the Grandstand for the Radiators' Ed Volker's Trio Mollusc, then I split from the others to go back to the Blues Tent for my pick of the day, Aaron Neville. I missed his 2012 show where he debuted his doo wop stuff, so I want to hear it now. It's hot as hell, so a seat inside and a few drops from the mist lines feels like heaven. Aaron does not disappoint, running through a bunch of old Neville Brothers, Wild Tchoupitoulas and his solo stuff. Curiously, after a rousing When the Saints Go Marching In, he chooses to do Tell It Like It Is - diffusing the energy in the room. On to Amazing Grace, which was the Nevilles' Jazz Fest closer for many years. For me, it has lost some of its punch. In any event, loved Aaron.
Just up around the bend in the track to Acura. As I make my way, I can hear Elton launching into Rocket Man. The crowd is immense, solid wall of people, but I make my way through until I can see the stage from the track (but, in reality, I see the large screens showing the stage!). Again, I was skeptical of booking aging rockers for Jazz Fest, but again I am proven wrong. He sounds in top form, his piano playing is strong and energetic. And it's really weird to see 20-somethings walking along singing Rocket Man, burning out his fuse up here alone. Parents' record collection? I stay for about 45 minutes, then head back to the Jazz Tent for the end of Terence Blanchard's set (and to rest my weary legs). Out the front gate over to the Seahorse to reconnect with the Pool Hall Studs, who have found yet another private source of transportation back to the Staybridge.
A quick cleanup and we're out to Root over near the Convention Center for dinner, where our somewhat pompous barkeep tells us all about expensive tequilas. Hot and Sour Lemonfish (Coriander Seared Lemonfish, Fried Glass Noodles, Red & Green Curry Paste, Horseradish “Snow,” Hot & Sour Soup) is very good.
Tired, but no longer hungry, I bid the Studs good evening. They continue on to Manning's where they bump into Allen Toussaint, dressed to the nines, just exiting from the Mayweather/Pacquiao fight. They also run into the Jersey crowd and accompany them to Kangaroo Vic's on Tchoupitoulas for a nightcap. I am fast asleep. Another good day at Jazz Fest.
Lagniappe Stage in the Grandstand
Aaron Neville at Blues Tent
Back of beer tent, near toilets for Elton John. Insanely crowded!
A good night's sleep on my luxurious pull-out couch bed. The PHS do not wake until late morning, so I'm up, dressed and walking - across Poydras, down Tchoupitoulas past Mother's and Restarant August (another simmering feud, something about Barry miffed at not being allowed the dinner menu while seated at the bar), across Canal Street, all the way up Bourbon (freshly hosed down, so not TOO smelly) to Esplanade, then over to Frenchman, where I see the new location of the Louisiana Music Factory. This walk, in retrospect, was not a well thought out idea, for we will be on our feet the whole day.
Stud sighting at Parkway's
Mark and Barry FINALLY awake from their slumber, then work out/run, announce themselves sufficiently buff, complain that I did not bring them up any food from the hotel breakfast buffet that they would NEVER eat at, shit/shower/shave, dress. Sensitive to my thought that we COULD be getting out to the Fairgrounds a bit earlier this year, we set out, grab a cab out to the Parkway Bakery & Tavern at the corner of Hagan/Toulouse for some poor boys. It's a small neighborhood joint with a big reputation for their poor boys. I grab a table while Mark waits in the long line until Barry finds out that if you get a table in the bar, the bartenders will take your order. We find a table in the back of the bar near the back door. Lots of people in and out picking up orders. Mark offered to hold the door for one young lady, loaded down with a bunch of bags. "No need, honey, that's why God gave me this big booty" as she used said booty to bump the door open. The Studs are starving and order Stud-sized shrimp and ???. I go for the more human size BBQ steak. Very good, but we agree that it does not quite compare with Mahoney's.
We're about seven blocks from the Fairgrounds, so we decide to walk it. Gorgeous day. Getting pretty warm. Bright sunshine, no clouds, temperature in the 80s. The grounds should be dried out from the 1st weekend rains and Monday's severe storm. The ticket line is short; we purchase tickets for all three days, each of which is up to $70. Our expectations for today's music are low, No Doubt and Chicago as the closers? Disappointing, but let's see what we can find. I suggest Gal Holiday & Her Honky Tonk Revue over at the Sheraton Fais Do Do Stage. We arrive early in her set and find Gal looking and sounding hot as the weather, a simple shift-type dress, boots, and a short cut to her dark hair. Oh, did I mention that she shaved one side of her head? Great look! She tells us she's from originally western Maryland, but after 16 years living here, she's a New Orleans girl through and through. Great voice, great backup band playing in a sort of country-swing fashion. Some originals, some Hank Williams, some Dylan. Very, very good start.
Luther Kent & Trick Bag at Gentilly Stage: Luther's been around for awhile but I've only caught him
Piano Shirt Friday?
once before. His biography says he was lead singer for the touring Blood, Sweat & Tears in the early 70's, but record contract issues kept him from ever recording with the group. Big man, rough, soulful voice backed by a huge band which features once of the sax players often, Good sound. We stick around for a good chunk of his set. We've finally found the New Jersey crew. More hugs, laughter, tears while everyone samples the liquid concoction that they've smuggled in.
Damn, it's getting warm, so New Jersey Mark suggests we go into the Miller Lite Tent (he's got some free passes) at the back of the Acura Stage for Galactic with Macy Gray. It gets us out of the sun with free beer and funk to boot! But I've targeted Shooter Jennings back at Fais Do Do as a possibly good show so Mark G and I leave the group and make our way over there. His set has just started, Looks a bit like his old man, Waylon. As he introduces his next song, it's quickly apparent that he is NO fan of Nashville (something like "My Favorite View of Nashville Is From Afar"), but all those anger issues result in some great songs. Hell of a backing band, too. The dude on pedal steel/harmonica is fabulous! "So, a few years ago a guy from Nashville said he was doing a tribute album for George Jones and asked folks to write original songs and submit them, so I wrote a couple songs for him. Turns out the guy was full of shit, but here's one of those songs I wrote." Funny story, great song. Great show, Shooter. Best of the day!
JK, Elisa, Pool Hall Studs at Gentilly
Chicago closing at the Acura Stage: Does anybody know what time it is? Does anybody really care? I don't. And I tell the others that there's no way I'm going to see No Doubt or Chicago, today's "big name" closers at Acura and Gentilly respectively. MAYBE I'm a bit of a music snob, but I loved the Chicago Transit Authority (saw them twice at Yale Bowl in the late 60s) through their first 3 albums until Terry Kath died and everything went to mush. And there's, like, one member left! But I'm a team player and I go along. Okay, okay, they do sound pretty good (except for some generic songs that sound like Journey). I'm getting killed by everyone. We venture into the crowd closer to the stage to meet up with Elisa, longtime friend of the Pool Hall Studs. I met her years ago just as she was moving from New Orleans out to Denver for professional reasons, but she and her husband have recently returned to NO permanently and are finishing up renovating a place in Marigny. Hugs, laughter, tears. The sun is lowering in the background as Chicago continues to prove my assessment of them MAY have been a bit harsh. Last song: 25 or 6 to 4 Killer good. Okay, OKAY!
And, of course, what would Jazz Fest be without the Pool Hall Studs' dressing for Marshall's annual themed dinner. Personally, I would not trust ANY read from that caddy!
The waiting is over, here come the Pool Hall Studs (aka Mark & Barry) pulling into the driveway in Mark's big ass, my-dick-is-bigger-than-yours black truck to pick me up for our trip to the airport, where we will be flying down to New Orleans for my 10th (not consecutive, since I missed with an excused absence last year) Jazz & Heritage Festival. Tearful hugs/kisses all around and then we're off.
Lunch at the airport, but mistake in having a Two Roads draft. I think you know why. Mark does, as I need to climb over him on the plane to go to the head. I get a text from Terrie, of the infamous Shoe Ladies, welcoming us to New Orleans. Unfortunately, we are in Tampa, waiting on our flight to Nola. The Shoe Ladies entourage, which ranges anywhere from 3 or 4 up to a dozen, has assembled from all parts of the continent - Florida, Toronto, British Columbia - since Tuesday. They set up their command post down in the Quarter at the same hotel, same suite each year (except that one year where Jon Bon Jovi and his crew pulled rank- those were some seriously pissed off Shoe Ladies). They are dining tonight at the Square Root on Magazine.
We finally land at Louis Armstrong Airport, where we would normally be greeted by longtime transportation guru Garland, no waiting, spicy fried chicken up front and ice cold beer in the back for our 20 minute trip into the city. But, as George Harrison once albumed, all things must pass, and Garland has moved on to other ventures. Not to worry, we quickly get a cab and are in our Staybridge Suites luxury suite (hey, how come I always get the fucking pullout couch!) right across from Mother's. I won't go all Arlo Guthrie on you and tell you about the Johnny Gumbo/Mother's feud in three-part harmony and pictures with circles and arrows on the back. You can look it up.
We had some contact with the New Jersey contingent (Mark, Lisa, Kenny, Kip et al) about meeting for dinner, but it was decided that we were arriving too late for that. We'll see them out at the Fairgrounds tomorrow. We cab up Magazine Street (hey, there are the Shoe Ladies in the window of Square Root!) to the Bouligny Tavern, where we set up at the bar. Lots of small plates are ordered/shared, all good, several outstanding. We text Terrie that we are are the street and they are welcome to join us for a drink, but she informs us that they have moved on to the bar at The Roosevelt and that we, rather than they, need to make the move because "the gentlemen are not wearing heels." Well, I guess Terrie doesn't know the Pool Hall Studs well, but that's a story for another time.
Sufficiently stocked with food and drink, we leave Bouligny Tavern and head over to The Roosevelt for the reunion. Hugs, laughter, tears, etc., a couple rounds of drinks and catching up, photo op (see below). Welcome to Jazz Fest 2015!
Well, it's been awhile, but maybe this will get me going:
Byus (Terrence Blanchard) Choices Gold Lion (Yeah Yeah Yeahs) Show Your Bones 6'1" (Liz Phair) Exile in Guyville Danko/Manuel (Drive-By Truckers) The Dirty South The New JuJu Man (Manhattan Transfer) Jazziz Dec2004 A Friend Like You (Ruthie Foster) The Phenomenal Ruthie Foster Amadaun Johnny (Goodnight Blue Moon) How Long Please Accept My Love (Gregg Allman) Low Country Blues Tequila Calling (Big Sandy & His Fly-rite Boys) Night Tide I'm going Away to Wear You Off My Mind (King Oliver's Creole) Louis Armstrong/King Oliver Right To Complain (Trombone Shorty) Backatown
Getting ready for Jazz Fest 2015. Cubes coming out on Tuesday!!!! Lineup
Pool Hall Studs. No comment needed.
Met up with the infamous Pool Hall Studs on Fat Tuesday at Infinity Music Hall in Hartford to see Buckwheat Zydeco and talk about Jazz Fest plans for 2015. I have no other friends who dare go (since the death of Johnny Gumbo), so these guys are stuck with me after a year's absence (absinthe?). I kinda know where the recently-opened partner to the Infinity Music Hall in Norfolk is, but how the hell do you get there? After circling the area a couple times, I finally ease into the parking garage and make my way into the IMH bar. Decent spot, not very crowded though. No PHSs. Of course not, they are always late. Back out to the lobby. Oh, THERE they are- in all their glory. Hey, hey, fuck you, etc. greetings exchanged.
Need tickets. A nice lady approaches with an extra $20 ticket for one of us. Looks us over and offers it to me, declines my offer to pay and gives me a hug, amusing/annoying the Studs greatly. First beers, of course, now on me. Inside is open to the stage, with a small section of chairs set up in the rear, a bar against the back wall. There is a balcony for those who choose not to mingle with the masses. Not really crowded, a mixture of ages, blended genders, etc., many 'dressed' for the occasion. Briefly, pictured the PHSs in drag, but choked on my beer. Yikes! Anyway, the accordian-wielding Buckwheat (born Stanley Dural Jr. 11/14/47 according to The Big Me's ubiquitous phone), despite getting up there in years (allegedly), is leading his hot bandmates through The Hits. I'm advised that I can take pics with my phone, but no flash. Thank you very much, Dickhead. It's Mardi Gras, for Heaven (or Hell) sakes.
It's a very brief night for this cowboy (unlike those two!), for I have work to do. So I leave them to say goodnight to Buckwheat for me. More to come.
Updates: The Ghost of Johnny Gumbo is rumored to be attending this year's French Quarter Festival because "Jazz Fest has lost its soul by bringing in all these national acts." Johnny always was a purist (and, sometimes, an asshole). You had to love him. Piano Shirt Friday?
Keith and Sharie are also appearing, post French Quarter Festival and pre-Jazz Fest, in New Orleans with friends Rose & Brian. Cooking with Emeril is on their schedule, but they are leaning on Barry for some interesting new eating spots. Is the Mother's boycott still on?
From Peter on Christine Ohlman show:
Just saw a great show at Amazing in Framingham.....50 people, but a really
good show ...but what a downer.....finally at the encore people got up and
danced.....The last time I saw her at the grog in Newburyport I was disappointed, but
this time she was great...but the venue sucked
Nothing like a Friday, day-long Compilation/Review Update seminar down in Groton to get those juices flowing! Sufficiently juiced by 4:15 PM, I jump into the Friday night rush hour traffic along I95 west toward New Haven to meet the boys (mild-mannered Keith, swashbuckling Vinny V and the noted rapper Rant On) for Lucinda Williams' free concert on the New Haven Green. God, this traffic sucks! I promised them I'd be there by five, but it's almost quarter to six and I'm only crossing the Q-Bridge.
